Rammang-Rammang is a village hidden inside the Maros-Pangkep karst, the second-largest limestone karst area on Earth, less than an hour from Makassar. The only way in is by wooden boat up the palm-lined Pute river, gliding between sheer grey towers to a hamlet of stilt houses set among rice paddies and lotus ponds ringed entirely by rock. Walks lead to hidden valleys, caves and viewpoints over the stone forest, and the nearby Leang-Leang prehistoric park preserves hand stencils painted on cave walls tens of thousands of years ago — among the oldest art known anywhere.