Makassar (formerly Ujung Pandang) is the capital of South Sulawesi and the largest city of eastern Indonesia, a historic spice-trade port where Bugis and Makassarese seafaring culture is still alive. Fort Rotterdam, a beautifully preserved 17th-century Dutch fortress built over the ruins of the Gowa kingdom's stronghold, anchors the old waterfront, while the Losari Beach esplanade fills every evening with food stalls serving pisang epe (grilled banana with palm sugar) against spectacular sunsets over the Makassar Strait. At Paotere harbour, wooden pinisi schooners still load cargo as they have for centuries. The city is the natural gateway to Sulawesi: Tana Toraja lies eight hours north through highland scenery, the karst towers and butterfly kingdom of Bantimurung-Bulusaraung National Park are an easy day trip, and the islets of Samalona and Kodingareng Keke offer snorkelling minutes offshore.